When you look in the Forward March Studios Library, you will not find any files titled, "infantry." Instead, you'll see dozens and dozens of files called MEGA CATS and ANGRY CATS. These are the infantry models. I used these names as iteration markers when I started designing the 3d files, and never changed them because they remained useful for telling the two families of sprues apart.
The model infantry in both MEGA CAT models and ANGRY CAT models are exactly the same. The only difference between the codes is in the number of strips per model, and how the models are attached to the sprues.
MEGA CAT infantry have (14) strips per model. If you print out the model MEGA CAT 40mm 3 Rank, this means you will get (14) bases of infantry, with each base having three ranks, and being 40mm wide. MEGA CAT infantry are attached to the sprue back-to-front. You can cut the sprue with scissors cleanly and go straight to painting, or you can file the spot down with a nail file. The meet up point of the base to the sprue is really not noticeable, so how you proceed will be up to you. I never use a nail file on my figures, including everything on this website. As an example of what this looks like, the model of the Union infantry regiment on this page is from a MEGA CAT sprue, and I did not use a nail file on the base to clean up the cut. Can you tell where the sprue was?
ANGRY CATS have (10) models per base, in two rows of five, attached to a single, central rail. This rail can be easily cut away with scissors or a hobby knife without harming the figures. If you are printing up larger models, like 60mm, 4 rank strips, there is a possibility that ANGRY CAT will result in better prints. However, this is not written in stone.
Because ANGRY CAT models have less bases than MEGA CAT models, the same size base in ANGRY CAT will often be cheaper to print, BUT will also be more expensive per base. The two versions of the infantry are being made available to give customers the option for how they want to print off their figures.
Good question! The descriptions tell you what base size and formation the figures in the model are deployed in.
The infantry models you print will be determined by the specific conflict or battle you plan on recreating. The Horse and Musket period of warfare spans roughly 200 years, from the time of Louis the 14th until the Franco Prussian War in 1872. Infantry tactics changed during this period in reaction to changing technology and tactics. My range of 2mm soldiers lets you reflect that change in your model formations.
Don't upload all of the files in the library to the 3d printer service you choose; you're time is worth more! Instead, pick only the files you need, and upload those.
To pick the correct model for your unit, you'll have to do some research. Generally, the earlier the period, the deeper the infantry formations. In the time of Louis the 14th four rank deeps lines would be common. By the time of Napoleon, they were unheard of. The French fought in three ranks, and the British, famously, fought primarily in two. Later, during the American Civl War and Franco Prussian War, the increased lethality of firearms resulted in the ubiquity of the two rank line. The above is a generality, but it can be enough to get you started.
This is one of the most unique features of Forward March Miniatures.
When I began desinging the range, I began with the assumption that each 2mm figure is 6' tall. I then determined exactly how many men should be located in the area of particular sized base. For the 40mm bases, this was 53 men, or, in 3 ranks, 159 men. At 2mm scale, and in real life, that large a number of men standing shoulder to shoulder blend together visually. To bring out the scale, and to show exactly how many men were really present, I modeled a bayonet point for each man. When you pick up a Forward March Miniature 2mm infantry base, you can count every single bayonet, and know that that model represents a perfect 1:1 scale model of the men who would have made that formation.
What this means, is that you can create entire battalions, brigades, divisions and corps of infantry at exact ground scale. You could, for instance, use my models to create a perfect scale model of Gettysburg or Waterloo, with every single individual soldier present and physically represented in some manner. This feature makes Forward March Miniatures 2mm figures unique amongst historic miniature ranges. To my knowledge, no other figure range allows you to create units at 1:1 ground scale (generally speaking, they are too wide for what they purport to show). If you use specific orders of battle (as the lists of the men present at a given battle are known), then you can make each unit the exact size (or very close to it) as it was on the day of the battle.
The other interesting feature of my range is that it allows you to see the exact difference in frontage (that is, the distance one would cross to walk across the front of the unit from side to side) between units of the same size but in difference formations. For many people the difference in size between a 500 man British regiment in 2 ranks and a 450 man French battalion in 3 ranks, deployed in an attack column (which triples its depth) is academic. Using my miniatures you can re-create units exactly as they fought, with no abstraction.
It depends on how many men were in the unit! But, for generic units, you could start with the following standards:
French Napoleonic Battalions at Campaign Strength: (3), 3-rank, 40mm bases per battalion.
Austrian Napoleonic Battalions at Full Strength: (7) 3-rank, 40mm bases per battalion.
Russian Napoleonic Battalions at Campaign Strength: (3), 3-rank, 30mm bases per battalion.
British Napoleonic Infantry at Campaign Strength: (3), 2-rank, 60mm bases per battalion.
American Civil War Regiments: These varied greatly, so that 3 bases of any size will perfectly represent different units. For more accuracy, include regimiments of greatly varying strength in the same brigade!
When collecting your force, don't forget that the size of a unit was not necessarily an indication of how it would fare in combat. Often time a large unit was large because it had just recieved a number of new recruits or raw reinforcements from a depot. These troops were often not as well prepared for combat as a much smaller, veteran unit comprised of men that had been campaigning for weeks, months, or years together.
I always make my own flags; I almost never use the models that have flags, other than where I printed them up for examples. You can find paper flags at websites like Warflag.com. You can also follow my tutorial on making your own flags using colored pens and note cards (my preferred method).
That said, some people like the flags printed right onto the model. In light of that I have created options for units with either one or two flags, as well as models with no flags. Pick whichever you prefer.